Wilco Musings

Wilco played to a sold out crowd on Tokyo's Odaiba Island last night.

We first saw Wilco four years ago at the Paradiso in Amsterdam, when we were just young whipper snappers living in different European countries. Maybe it was the last minute meeting in Holland for 2 people tired of living thousands of miles apart, the bicycles flanking the streets or the romantic light coming in the stained glass windows of the converted church, but I think that may have been the best show we've seen.

Fast forward to last night, and we found ourselves on a man-made island (built on top of a landfill) at Palette Town's concert venue Zepp Tokyo. The scene of concert goers changed from flannel shirted-pot smoking-bike riders to young hipsters in suits just getting off work and the train. At concerts in Japan, the audience is ever so respectful---no one crowds to the front and sumimasens pepper the air as people politely jostle for a spot. Dancers quietly knee bob in their individual square foot of space. It's an audience that I'm sure must phase musicians at their first show. What, no hecklers? No fights? No moshing?

This particular crowd was probably made up of 15% foreigners. A good hour into the show, between songs, someone yelled out "Say something!" to which Jeff Tweedy replied, "shut-up." After a few songs he apologized to the Japanese crowd saying that "shut-up" wasn't for them, but for all the Americans in the crowd. Apparently, Americans at his shows want to make a connection from the audience and seem to think he is speaking directly to them. Charming.

The show was incredible. The music sounded even better than on the records and we loved all 2 hours of it. They are great musicians. It's a little bit disheartnening to watch your favorite band start to show the slow and eventual spread of the bellies and loosening of the hair. Rock stars aren't supposed to be mere aging mortals like us, but comparing the band member's physiques to that of 4 years ago makes me realize we are all growing up (and/or out).

The flannel shirts, shaggy hair and acoustic guitars made me homesick for Oregon. I know where my roots are and they seem to be calling me back home more and more these days.

Glimpses of Japan from the iPhone

James's iPhone captures great images on the fly that we might otherwise be too shy to snap. Every once in a while I remember to pull them off his phone. Here are a few shots of the strange, the bizarre, and maybe even the unimaginable (ok, probably not).

Deep vein thrombosis (economy class syndrome)
This was on a health card at Nagoya airport. As if we poor commoners didn't already have it bad enough back in coach!

I'll never get over outrageously priced fruit. The front 3 melons go from about $100 down to $60.

An $18 bunch of grapes.

At the check in counter for our Air Philippines flight to leave Boracay, we had to step on the scale WITH our baggage! That was when we knew we were dealing with a top notch organization.
*That is not James's hairy arm. I do not know this poor unsuspecting and possibly over-his-weight-limit man.*

Costco Japan: Looks pretty much the same with the exception of the SUSHI counter replacing the deli counter and that young boys run around in pajama pants and Uggs. James got cold in the freezer section and stole my scarf.

I was thinking just a piece---Matt suggested the whole American pie. We've never felt so collectively sick after a meal. Bleh.

Who isn't attracted to a giant fish head in the grocery store?

Adventures in Cooking

I learned about mirin the hard way tonight.

Never having used mirin in my cooking, I googled it before I started cooking the recipe for salmon, soba noodles and miso dressing. Trusty Google told me it was Japanese rice wine commonly used in cooking. Perfect, had some of that in the cupboard. So, I added the mirin to the sauce pan and let it simmer while I got the fish grill and another gas burner going.

When the fish grill didn't light, I figured I was overloading the oven. Ever impatient and hungry, I tried again instead of backing off. Instantly the most piercing alarm I've ever heard went off. Flashbacks of my mom baking chocolate chip cookies came into my mind as I quickly fanned what I thought was the smoke detector on the kitchen ceiling. But, it didn't work. I fanned some more, turned off all the burners, opened doors...nothing.

Instead of abating, the front door monitor started yelling at me in Japanese and flashing a picture of water spigot and the characters ガス (gas). After about 4 minutes of incessant beeping, James finally climbed up and took the sensor off the base. The beeping stopped. I pushed all the buttons I could make out on the monitor and it finally stopped flashing impending doom at me.

Problem solved. Sat down to a yummy dinner.

Doorbell rings, Japanese man on the speaker, but no more video. I fumbled with the monitor and realized I somehow screwed up the buttons during my earlier debacle.

I've had Japanese men in security uniforms at our door in the past. I knew what to expect and thankfully I started my Japanese lessons yesterday, so I'm already fluent. Our conversation went something like this:

Jesse: Sumimasen! (excuse me)
Security: Did you set off an alarm you crazy gaijin? (paraphrased)
Jesse: Gomennasai (sorry)
Security: Ryori desu ka? (Are you cooking?)
Jesse: Hai. Ryori desu. (Yes. Cooking.)
Security: Mirin desu ka? (Mirin is it?)
Jesse: Hai...mirin desu. Ahhhhhhhhhhh, so desu ka? (Is that so?)
Security: New to this cooking game are you? (paraphrased)
Jesse: Hai, hai. Gomennasai. (Yes, yes, sorry.)
Security: Namae wa, nan desu ka? (What is your name?)
Jesse: Watashi wa, ジェシ desu. (This translates directly to: As for me, Jieshi it is.)
Security: Sayonara you silly girl (paraphrased again)
Jesse: Gomennasai!!!

My Japanese teacher will be so proud and it seems I won't be cooking with mirin again any time soon. James came up the stairs and asked me how the security guard knew I was cooking with mirin. I said, either it happens often, or it's the empty bottles in the doorway. Does anyone know about this? Does alcohol come off as a gas when it is cooked?

More from Boracay

I stole a few pictures from Craig and Charity. I think their photos better capture the beauty of the island than mine do.

These kids are gorgeous.

Land is on your right, James.

Being away from Tokyo makes us realize how vibrantly colorful the rest of the world is.

Island living is tough work.

The highest viewpoint on Boracay.

ugh. I still don't know why I voluntarily suited up in lycra for most of my holiday.

Oh, I want to go back! Reports say this is the coldest April on record in Japan in 50 years.

Ferry from Caticlan to Boracay.

Trikes on at the ferry dock. I want a mango shake!

Meet Easton

My newest nephew was born to Emma and Beau this week. His name is Easton and he is the picture of perfection. Dang, sometimes it's hard being so far away.

They're Back!

The sakura blossoms bloomed 6 days earlier this year. Shocking, since its been such a long, cold winter in Tokyo. It's Easter Sunday today and it feels cold enough to snow.

We had Good Friday off and did a little wandering with our cameras and bikes. Unicycles are really popular with little girls. I can't imagine a school in the States stocking unicycles for recess.

Entering through a stone torii at a temple.

These are Maneki Neko (fortune cats) on a 4 story shelf at a neighborhood temple. Cats with their left paw up in a welcoming fashion are found in stores and are supposed to beckon new customers to the shop. Cats with their right paw up welcome good fortune or wealth.

These are James's favorite fresh baked メロンのパン (melon pan) at a shop in our neighborhood. They are soft balls of dough shaped like melon, but usually topped with cinnamon, chocolate or maple syrup.

The clouds parted long enough on Saturday to have a hanami in Kinuta Koen with friends. This park was more family friendly and less rambunctious than last year's hanami in Yoyogi Koen.

4 month old baby Natalee kept me warm when the sun tucked behind the clouds. She belongs to proud mama Ingrid and daddy Montani, but I think I would like to take her home.

Lucky to Be Alive

When Craig and Charity's flight from Boracay to Manila was delayed last year while the ground crew duct-taped the wing, we should have been warned. When our plane landed in Boracay and James grabbed my hand and said "hold on, honey" because the plane landed sideways, we should have been warned. And when the dive instructor told us about a plane that crashed at the Boracay airport and was going to be sunk soon for underwater exploration, we should have been warned. But now Europe has warned us about Air Philippines, Philippine Airlines, Zest Air, and Cebu Air, all flown by all 5 of us at some point on this trip.

I'd say we are lucky to be alive, and yet, I'd probably fly them again just because Boracay is that amazing. And if you know me, and my fear of flying, you know that's pretty much near a miracle.

Boracay Island, The Philippines

Spring Break on Boracay:

Tropical islands, mango shakes, palm trees, snorkeling, scuba diving, white sand, crystal clear water, sailboats, cheap rum, friendly locals, sunshine, good friends and a dream to go back.

The island of Boracay. Our villas and where we spent most of our time is toward the top of the picture.

I love these little tricycles. Similar to the tuk-tuks in Thailand, they take you around the island for about a dollar's fare.

Our typical day...

and a typical night. Most everyone speaks English in The Philippines and we had a lot of fun hanging out with the locals and playing with their kids.

I don't think I could rate the food in The Philippines higher than the spicy tastes of Thailand, but these mango shakes were a little slice of heaven. Fresh mango and ice in the blender. Every night we dined on fresh fish while watching the waves crash and the stars come out. Food and drinks were cheap. Massages about $8 for an hour.

James, Craig and Charity did a lot of sunbathing and a little diving. Cory and I took an Open Water Divers course, which Cory successfully completed. After day 2 I opted for more time above water and the occasional snorkel swim.

The glass bottom boat behind us is painted like Nemo. We found clown fish, spiny sea urchins and humongous sand dollars just from the surface of the sea. My favorite line from our dive theory books: "If it's really pretty, really ugly or doesn't run away from you, don't touch it!" So true in all of life.


Even the cats were on island time.

Kids ran free around the island. No hyper-attentive parents, no orange arm floaties, no sunscreen---just child-like play with wild abandon at the beach. They were gorgeous.

Sunsets were strictly observed. We left the beach one time for a sunset ride on a sailboat. Flying fish and big box jellyfish cruised with us.

Our perfect jungle villas for $33 per night. Just a 3 minute walk from the beach. Monkeys, toads, geckos and birds all inclusive.

Our tricycle ride back to catch the ferry to catch the plane to get us back to...

Manila. A city with a "captivating energy and electricity in the air."* Here's Cory on our final Philippine evening in one of the many outdoor malls in Manila. Fake environments are an oasis in the middle of a crazy city like this. Cory is on country #9 with us. We look forward to making South Korea #10 in May.

*Read: Travel code words for a messy, disorganized, in-your-face city with air pollution, honking cars, zero traffic laws, and guards with guns on every street corner and convenience store.

Our Wedding Story *by Riko*

I have a rather precocious student in my class who is always interested in the love lives of adults. It must be her older sister's influence because normally second graders don't care much about love lives except to be grossed out by their parents kissing. But this little one was so inspired by her teacher getting married that she very enthusiastically wrote a story about it. Everyday she asked for more writing time. Like any good budding author, she was very dutiful in her research, asking such important questions as, "what did you do next?" and "did you ever go to his house?" Read on:

Mr. Foss and Ms. Latter
Realistic Fiction
"They Are Going to Marry"
By: Riko

Realistic fiction! She realized she didn't have all the details since she has only known me for 7 months and had to fill some in herself.

There is a man called Mr. Foss. He is realy strong and handsome.

Love those bulging biceps!

He went to ropongi and he saw just right person called Ms. Latter. And Ms. Latter thought that he is cute and handsome. Mr. Foss thought...

The Roppongi sentence is funny on so many levels. Roppongi is the foreigner neighborhood of Tokyo filled with American friendly restaurants, grocery stores and bars. But Roppongi is also an area filled with gentleman's clubs and where "less-reputable" women hang out, if you know what I mean. How did she come up with Roppongi?

...he is funny and cute. A butifull women called Ms. Latter said hi! He said hey! They be came friend for a long long...

While I like to think she is commenting on James's narcissism here, she often has trouble with he/she. Mind you she has only been speaking English for 2 years. Apparently I'm not only a less-reputable women, but I'm also very forward.

...time. Mr. Foss said could you come to my house? She said "of course!" Ms. Latter went to Mr. Foss house. They went to church.

Floozy! Everyone knows you don't go to a man's house when you meet in Roppongi! Go to church and repent!
**I also always say "of course" in class.

And the priest was talking to Mr. Foss said "I will mary with Ms. Latter." They disaited (decided) to marry! It was the day to marry and Ms. Latter...

Okay, we have redeemed ourselves, we are getting married. I love James's goatee and spiky hair. She was kind to give him some.

...wore a butifull dress. Sparkling and had a veil. And the priest said to Ms. Latter will you marry and she said yes! He said it to Mr. Foss...

Japanese brides wear very bright princess like ball gowns, so the polka-dots don't surprise me.

...too he said "of course." And she got a butiful ring shaped like a heart. Ms. Latter became Mrs. Foss. Mr. Foss and Mrs. Foss kiss on a lip. And they...

This one had me in stitches! Look at those lips!

...went to a nother house. On December they sleep to gather shaped like a star and they lived happily ever after.

As she was doing her research for this book, she asked me, "Do you and Mr. Foss sleep in the same bed?" I responded by asking if her parents did. She said "sometimes." I think in traditional Japanese homes you usually have your own futon, that's why we are in separate beds on the star bed.

I like Snoopy. I love 2B and 1A.

2B is my class and 1A was her class last year. It's the best About the Author blurb ever. Watch out Kristin, this one's jostling for that book sale in the future.

You know your in Asia when...

Buddha is on the nightstand in your hotel room.